Yup you by far have been the most understanding and show applied theory in your testing. Well done. Others may be taking it in just a well, but your posting applied understanding at the deepest level I've seen yet and it a pleasure chatting with you. If I drag out explanations its going to often be so others can follow along and pick up as much as possible.
I don't understand why many take such a linear approach to tuning cars, unwilling to understand everything works together the settings are not all independent of each other.
More importantly why people are so confused between grip and handling. OR why some are seriously confusing the feeling of adding grip and removing grip.
We Tune for the best Handling so at times to achieve a balance car around the track we use the various settings to add and remove grip in various conditions.
Example
Some stiffen up the suspension thinking this is adding grip giving them more rotation.... That's incorrect.
More grip doesn't give more rotation. It does the opposite. To get more rotation while adding grip OR removing it (Yes that's what's being done when stiffening the suspension, you stiffen one end and increase the balance of mechanical grip to the other side by reducing it on the side being stiffened) we need to offset the balance of the grip changes to allow rotation.
Offsetting the balance either way (adding or removing) to give more grip to the front vs the rear helps rotation, too much oversteer, too little understeer... The goal get them as equal as possible around the track, not a steady state circle.
When stiffening the suspension there is the method of using stiffer rear settings in relation to the front (relative to the adjustable amount) as mentioned stiffening the suspensions is basically lowering total mechanical grip, but we do this in a offset balance that shift the grip balance to the front vs the rear. This is because the softer front will have more grip than the stiffer rear, this helps rotation.
Now an example of adding grip to help rotation can be done higher downforce setting in the front (relative to adjustable range as all tuning elements are in GT series) vs the rear will give more of the increase of grip to the front than the rear. This helps rotation. We have to keep in mind downforce tuning is done more for high speed corners where its affects are greatest vs low speed corners where mechanical grip is more at work.
This is probably why they confuse how camber works. Simply adding camber to both ends increases overall grip relatively equally and so the car understeers. It needs to be applied in a way that balances the grip increase in order to increase rotation.
Applied to camber we give most often a higher front setting than the rear so as we increase grip with camber we offset the balance of the grip increase to the front because this will help rotation, instead of the grip increase causing understeer...... Simply adding camber to only one side, that side will be less willing to rotate, more willing to hold on though
most often both cases create understeer, only when the balance is correctly tuned in can you get the desired effects on rotation.
Balance is key with everything, there is nothing linear most adjustments effect the balance of other adjustments, so we use the settings for their intended purposes so that tuning makes sense. Often those who think things are broken they simply are not balancing the settings correctly and so adjustments don't have predictable effects, or work in realistically predictable ways.